Rambla | Soho

Chef Victor Garvey has been rather busy since making a name for himself at Bravas Tapas in St.Katherine Docks. He was also involved with next door Amaru, before he set his sights on Covent Garden and Soho, starting with Duende (now Encant) on Maiden Lane. Earlier this year, he opened Sibarita, a wine and cheese bar, and now he’s at it again with Rambla on Dean Street. The Rambla menu is inspired by the Catalan food of Garvey’s childhood in Barcelona. It’s a colourful space, perfectly placed down the road from the Soho Theatre, and round the corner from Milroy’s, Bar Termini and Swift if you are looking for a serious drink before or after.

I dropped in for a casual pre-show dinner, grabbing two bar seats in front of the open kitchen (which admittedly was a little more functional and less mesmerising than the likes of Kiln and The Palomar). Beautifully presented plates soon started arriving in easy to share formats, from the pair of pan con tomate slices (£4) to the foursome of spinach croquetas (£4). Some meaty highlights included flavoursome lamb chops with rosemary alioli (£8), and calorific oxtail canelones covered in “Nevat” cheese cream (£6). The standout dishes for me were the “Butifarra Negre” sliders (£5), featuring Spanish black pudding and green apple slaw, and a generous helping of sea bass with port braised salsify and a Jerusalem artichoke sauce (£7). To finish, a torrija (described as the Catalan version of pain perdu), served with a raspberry ice cream (£5), hit the spot. As you can see, prices are extremely reasonable for tapas-style dining in London where bills can so often get out of control very quickly. What’s more, you can make reservations! Victor Garvey is clearly on to a winning formula, and I’ll be working my way through the rest of his Spanish establishments soon.

Rambla – ramblalondon.com

64 Dean Street, W1D 4QQ

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