After several years of chasing Joel, Alex and The Good Egg crew around Wapping docks, Hackney estates, and London Bridge rooftops, they finally got themselves a permanent spot – in bloody Stoke Newington. Of course, I still made the epic journey, but I had been selfishly hoping for something more central. Fast forward two years, and the long wait is over. The Good Egg has landed in Soho, in the stylish surroundings of Kingly Court, and it’s bigger and better than ever.
As with the N16 original, the menu is packed with tempting dishes inspired by Israeli street food and Montreal’s delis. Oded Mizrachi has got a larger bakery, from which he’s turning out fluffy pitas, hand-rolled bagels, hot flatbreads and more. Keep your eyes peeled for knaffe croissants, tahini oreos and, most importantly, the daily babka. Brunch is full of difficult decisions, so bring a group and an empty stomach – you’ll want the signature shakshuka, brisket or smoked fish hash, za’atar fried chicken, aubergine sabih, short-rib shawarma, and all of the Jerusalem breakfast plates. In the evening, you can tuck in to the likes of braised orange and juniper octopus, baharat-roasted roots and lamb chops al haesh. As Grace Dent put it, “The menu reads like a bawdy love letter that hopes to get my knickers off”.
They’ve also got an enticing drinks list with several cocktails that call for seasonal shrubs – a combination of white vermouth, apple and fig leaf shrub and soda was a fine way to start the day, and the Slivovitz Neggroni featuring a plum shrub soon followed. Basically, it’s all rather lovely, and the location is a game changer. Well done Kingly Court for adding yet another fine establishment to the outstanding Carnaby Street collection.
The Good Egg – www.thegoodegg.co
Soho – Kingly Court, W1B 5PW
Stoke Newington – 93 Stoke Newington Church Street, N16 0AS